Our Ecuador climbing trip offers an introduction to the glories of high altitude mountaineering (or for those who wish to extend their high altitude experience) whilst enjoying some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Andes. Ease of access makes the volcanoes of Ecuador particularly attractive to those with a limited time frame providing an adequate period is allowed for acclimatisation. You will experience all of the earth's ecological zones from subtropical to arctic by climbing in the fabulous Avenue of Volcanoes.
This tour allows you to climb four of the most impressive volcanoes in Ecuador: Imbabura (4,630 metres), Illiniza North (5,100 metres), Cotopaxi (5,897 metres) and an optional extension to climb Chimborazo (6,310 metres), the latter Ecuador's highest and largest mountain which is the furthest point from the centre of the earth due to the equatorial bulge. The breathtaking views and sense of achievement make all the effort well worthwhile. Coupled with colonial cities, colourful markets and time to relax in both tropical Banos and the highland capital of Quito this superb trip provides any fit outdoor person with the perfect all round expedition.
(No previous mountaineering experience is required although some prior experience would be preferred to attempt the peaks on this tour. Climbing equipment, i.e. plastic boots, crampons and ice-axe: instruction in its use is given by our mountain guides).
Joining the tour
On booking, you will be
sent the following information: name and address of Quito hotel,
advice on how to get there, time of rendezvous with tour leader.
Itinerary details
Note: If circumstances
dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops, may vary from
those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.
Day 1: Arrival Quito, transfer to hotel
You arrive in the bustling capital of Ecuador: Qui-to. The city of Quito is surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes and is located only 22 kilometres from the equator and at an altitude of 2,850m.
Quito was also given the nick name Monastry of America because of its many churches and abbeys. At the airport your English-speaking guide welcomes you and takes you to hotel Casa Foch, where you spend the following nights acclimatising and exploring the area on guided trips.
Day 2: Quito city tour & Equator monument (B)
After breakfast, you enjoy a city tour through the colonial neighbourhoods of Quito. Quito’s historic centre was declared as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1978.
You visit Plaza de la Independencia, view the unique Jesuit Church La Compania de Jesus, and then head to the Panecillo, a 200m high volcanic hill with the statue of the Virgin de Quito perched atop.
From here you have a breathtaking view over Quito and if the sky is clear you can even marvel at the volcanoes Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Antizana.
Next, it’s Mitad del Mundo, the equator monument a few kilometres north of Quito. Here you also pay a visit to the nearby Museo Intinan where you are exactly on the Equator. We then return to Quito and the hotel.
The evening is free to enjoy the vibrant nightlife, internet cafes and artisan shops near the hotel. Hotel.
Day 3: Visit Cochasqui ruins, acclimatization hike around Lagoon Cuicocha (3,200m) (B,L)
Today you head towards Otavalo. En route we stop at the ruins of Cochasqui - 15 incomplete pyramids, some around 1,500-years-old and which represent the cultural, astronomical and religious centre of the Quitu Cara culture.
From here it is on to Lake Cuicocha, a crater lake that emerged some 3,100 years ago as the result of a massive eruption. This stunning lake was formed when the volcano Cotacachi exploded so violently that the peak submerged totally. Today two small volcanoes are emerging in the middle of the lake and the ridge walk around the rim is a fantastic way to view this area from all sides and also on clear days see the volcanoes of this area, snow-capped Cayambe and rocky Imbabura (46,00m) towering over the patchwork fields of this agricultural area. Plus it is of course useful acclimatisation. Tonight you will stay a small hotel managed by Otavalo Indians in Otavalo.
Day 4: Acclimatization hike Fuya Fuya (4,286m), visit Otavalo market (B,L)
This morning you climb Mount Fuya Fuya (4,630m) as we continue to acclimatise, and from its top you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Northern Sierra of Ecuador.
In the afternoon, we explore the famous cultural town of Otavalo. The Indian markets in Ecuador are well known for their colour and diversity. In every region, each community has its own traditional costumes, crafts and cultural characteristics that distinguish it from other towns. Visitors can hope to encounter everything from wool textiles, native fruits, fresh vegetables, and flowers to jewellery, ceramics, baskets, wood carvings, local paintings, embroidery, tools and even animals of all shapes and sizes. Food, crafts, handiwork, animals all converge on the tiny cobbled streets of this atmospheric place.
Day 5: Mt. Imbabura (4,630 m) (B,L)
An early start today for an acclimatisation climb to Imbabura (4,630m). This is a rocky peak offering more of a walk than an actual climb but it provides excellent exercise through some beautiful lush scenery, past typical farm settlements, over tussocky hills with the ridge at the top giving the opportunity for some exciting scrambling. The views of the open caldera at the top are impressive as the colourful patch-work of fields in this agricultural region lay before you. Descend early afternoon and return to Quito for the night at our hotel.
Day 6: Mt. Guagua Pichincha (4,790m) (B,L)
In the morning you head to Guagua Pichincha, where you will hike for approximately 6 hours to the summit.
This active volcano consists of 2 peaks. Both peaks are visible from the capital city Quito and are easy to ascend. After a whole day of hiking you return by private transfer to Quito, where we stay in a hosteria in Aloasi, a convenient location for the next day’s hike.
Day 7: Mt. Illiniza Norte (5,126 m) (B,L)
Today we ride to La Virgen (3,900m), from where we start our 2 to 4-hour hike to Refugio Nuevo Horizonte.
From here, we ascend Mt. Illiniza Norte. It is a steady traverse up the scree slope to the rocky ridgeline that leads along a slightly tricky rocky escarpment. The route to the Illiniza Norte summit (5,126m) involves a non-technical scramble that should not be attempted in inclement weather. It is a fairly short ascent and a good test to see how you are developing with the altitude and also as preparation for Cotopaxi. Descend back to the parking lot and transfer to Hacienda La Cienega, in Lasso.
Day 8: Acclimatization Hike around the Lagoon Quilotoa (3,900m) (B,L)
Today we drive to the marvellous emerald green crater lagoon Quilotoa. We hike up and down the inside of the crater of this no longer active volcano.
Once at the bottom, the brave can swim in the crater, but due to its cold and sulphurous waters it’s not really recommendable but many do! After this visit to this beautiful lagoon and approximately 4 hours hiking, we return to your hacienda of the previous night.
Day 9: Cotopaxi National Park (B,L,D)
In the morning after breakfast continue to the parking lot (4,600m) and from there trek to Cotopaxi´s refuge, the Jose Rivas Hut (4,800m). Rest, and in the afternoon a last and test class of glacier school, testing equipment on site and a brief recce of the route you will take the following morning. You will notice the sulphur smell underfoot which seems strange as you are wrapped up in down jackets and warm clothing! Return to the hut and rest body and mind to leave at night (approx 2am) towards the highest active volcano summit in the world. Mountain Hut, Cotopaxi National Park.
Day 10: Mt. Cotopaxi (5,897 m), Baños (B,L)
Climbing Cotopaxi (5,897m). Set off just after midnight, up the scree slope for approx 30 minutes until the massive glacier wall looms up out of the darkness. At this point you should be able to see the lights of Quito shining surprisingly close (weather permitting).
Climb up on to the glacier itself and wind your way through the crevasse field. The cracking of the ice is quite disconcerting in the darkness and most of the crevasses are so huge that you can see far down into their depths. Snow bridges have formed across them and the path is quite obvious. You gain height quickly as the ground steepens once through the worst of the crevasses. Onwards and upwards to a massive ice wall roughly parallel with the prominent rock band (approx. 5,600m) one can see from the hut. Traverse round and ascend up onto the summit dome finally gaining the top as the sun rises. High above the clouds a whole circle of volcanoes should be clearly seen including both Illinizas, Antisana, Altar and possibly even Cayambe. The darkness of the ground below contrasts sharply with the brilliant white snow shimmering in the sun (we hope!). The climb should take 6-7hrs. The descent should take only a few hours returning to collect your overnight gear from the hut (there are lockers but padlocks are required) and on to Baños, to recover and celebrate.
Day 11: Baños free day, return to Quito, or stay in Baños then climb Chimborazo (B)
Free day in Baños OR a possible extension (see below) to climb Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest peak.
Baños is the gateway to the jungle. The dramatic change from highland vegetation to lush subtropical flora is fascinating and one of the highlights of this trip. Baños is situated at the base of Tungurahua (which is often erupting and disturbing local life) and is surrounded by dense cloud forest. There is a variety of subtropical, lush vegetation, an enormous variety of plant and bird life, also waterfalls and thermal baths to experience. It is a truly picturesque setting with water cascading down sheer faces and lush greenery clinging to the vertical cliff sides.
In Baños, you can book one of the following activities: rafting, canyoning, canopy, horse riding, hiking, thermal springs, spa or just relax and recover from the last days’ efforts. In the afternoon we head back to Quito where we will spend the night again in Hotel Casa Foch in Quito. Those climbing Chimborazo will stay in Baños tonight.
Day 12: Departure from Quito (B) OR Hike in Mt. Chimborazo Natural Reserve (4,980m) (B,L,D)
If you are not staying on to climb Chimborazo, then, today, after an exciting trip ascending the peaks of the smallest Andean state, the time has come to say goodbye to Ecuador. We transfer you out to the airport or choose to travel onwards.
OR
The mighty Chimborazo (6310m) and the mountain known in the last century as the highest in the world (which technically it still is if measured from the centre of the Earth).
The mountain is noticeably more volcanic in nature to Cotopaxi and herds of vicunas often roam the park grazing on the sparse vegetation that grows amidst the blackened rock. From Guaranda, it’s a two hour walk from the lower Carrel refuge(4,800m) to the Whymper Hut (in memory of the British explorer who opened the first routes to the summit) at 5,000m. Rest in the afternoon as it is another midnight start to attempt the summit. Mountain Refuge, Chimborazo.
Day 13: Mt. Chimborazo (6,310m) (B,L)
Up at midnight to trek up through the scree and low-lying snow towards the moraines that lead to the “Castle”, where the ice path begins to head up along the ridges of the western slopes. The rock massif known as El Corridor and El Castillo looms menacingly above and care must be taken not to descend during the heat of the sun as massive boulders break loose and crash down the mountainside.
The gradient is steep from early on and the crevasses hard to spot due to the heavy snow coverage. Often they are mere ‘sink holes’ in the surface. The route continues steadily up with little rest or level ledges to stop on. After climbing through the night the First Summit should be reached by sunrise. The spectacle of the mountain casting its shadow in front of the rising sun is unforgettable. From here it is a short walk along fairly flat terrain to the true summit (this can be a slog if the sun has turned the snow to slush). The views should be spectacular in good conditions and the neighbouring peak of Carihuairizo at 5,020m seems dwarfed.
If weather permits, the Pacific Ocean can even be seen. The climb lasts an average of 8 – 9 hours to the top (depending on weather and participant conditions). A strict turnaround time should be kept as there is a high avalanche risk on this mountain due its steep gradient and the descent can become tricky in soft snow. Return to the hut and collect your gear for your onward journey heading to Quito and Hotel Casa Foch.
Day 14: Departure from Quito (B)
After an exciting trip ascending the peaks of the smallest Andean state, the time has come to say goodbye to Ecuador. We transfer you out to the airport or choose to travel onwards.
Our price includes: English-speaking tour guides and English-speaking, licensed ASEGUIM Mountain Guides during ascents (2 participants per mountain guide) to Mt. Cotopaxi and Mt. Chimborazo, mountain equipment (ice axes, crampons and boots, harness, helmet), all transfers and trips as listed, hotels (or similar) as listed, mountain refuges, meals as listed.
Not included in the prices are: Meals not listed and all drinks, National park fees and entrance fees (approx. USD 100pp) Personal expenses and optional activities i.e. in Baños, personal equipment (sleeping bag, head torch, etc.), tips, insurance, flights, personal items and clothing.
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